Houston Lake: Moby Dick Mountain and Mount Proteus

This July 2015 climbing trip was inspired by some classic views of Moby Dick. In the first image below, it reigns over the terrain of Battle Abbey. The two peaks on the snowy ridge are Pequod (right) and Forecastle, while Typee is the flat-topped peak at left. And the second image is from our 2013 ski trip to Oasis Lake; Moby Dick is just left of center (the sharp peak at right rear is Butters, with Forecastle just in front of it, to its left. In this image, our climbing route was straight up the south face to the small notch just right of Moby Dick’s summit.




Above: The crux of the Moby Dick climb. Below: Stygian Pool with Scylla and the Chinese Wall on the left. This shows the terrain of our two ski trips to the area, 2004 and 2013.


Trip Report


Day One: Fly In and Easy Hike

Day Two: Moby Dick Ascent

Day Three: Rest Day: Flowers and Views

Day Four: Proteus Ascent by South Ridge of Harpoon

Day Five: Rest Day: Mostly Rain

Day Six: Billy Budd Transverse Ridge, Fly Out

Post-Trip Research: First Ascender Sam Silverstein; Queen Elizabeth II visit to Golden and first map of the area by Sam.

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