Day Four: Proteus Ascent by South Ridge of Harpoon

The rocky ridge on the left side of the Harpoon Glacier is the direct south ridge to Proteus, a classic and high-quality route that  we climbed and descended. Harpoon summit is directly above the upper glacier, but we went to Proteus instead, the peak at far right above the tiny dot of snow. While the ridge looks and is low angle overall, there are many towers on it requiring climbing to 5.4; the quality of the granite is excellent throughout.


The ridge had lots of towers but they could all be turned at the 5.4 level. Pierre leading one of them here.


Working around a tower. Photo by David Nebel.


The upper Harpoon Glacier with Harpoon Peak behind, just left of center.


Stan on the rocks. (Photo by Pierre Hungr)


Stan just below summit of Proteus. This was a remarkable vantage point: 4000 feet straight down to camp. (Photo by Pierre Hungr)


The NW ridge of Billy Budd, with White Chocolate Couloir (skied by us in 2004) and the small flat area in the transverse ridge where we came through in 2004, as did Sam Silverstein et al in 1959.


Looking 4000 feet straight down to camp from a small notch just before the summit of Proteus. The Wrong Glacier, and the Wrong-Vistamount col and Mt. Goodrich are all prominent. The snow peak in rear center is Gyr (Snow Ocean), where we started our traverse into Battle Abbey in 2004.


Virtue Peak right of center. Katie Larson and I climbed it from Selkirk Lodge in 2005.


Butters (left) and Moby Dick (center) from Proteus summit.



Pierre at Proteus summit. The haze from forest fires limited the views a bit.


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