West Deming, East Face, Seldom Flat

On June 7, 2019, Bruce Allen and I climbed the peak from Vail Pass in just over 3.5 hours. We took a look at the desired line. It looked like it could be very mushy but we went for it anyway. Bruce went first and a lot of snow moved as he made his way down. I followed and it was similar, plus there was one natural slide from below the cornice. So we got down, but it was somewhat unsafe. We then made the long traverse back to Flat Pass. This line is between Flat Pass and Seldom Pass (the pass below the W ridge of Deming), so let’s call it Seldom Flat. At the pass we climbed halfway up Uneva, and so the day was an even 4000 feet of climb over 13 miles and 8 hours. In better conditions one could try the awesome line that goes right from the summit!

We wanted the line that goes from the shallow saddle looker’s left of the summit. It looked to be mushy. I thought it would be okay, but in fact it was too mushy for a good descent. But we got down safely.

Here is a view from near Seldom Pass in early January, 2020. Our ski line is in center.

 
The ascent was beautiful.

 
Bruce at summit. Under his camera is Grand Traverse Peak. Then Valhalla to the right, Sleet above the poles, then Hail, then Silverthorne and East Thorne right of the skis.

 
The view down the NE ridge from the summit. It is a fine rock climb in summer. Red Peak behind.

 
Bruce went down first and tried to clear it out. But it was a mess.

 
Looking up at the face. Our line was about three-quarters of the way from right to left, between the large rocks.

 
The return to Flat Pass was a bit of a slog. (Photo by Bruce Allen)