Trip report

Personnel:
Stan Wagon, 64, Silverthorne, Colo.
Katie Larson, Montezuma, Colo.
Bob Portmann, Silverthorne, Colo.
Jonathan Kriegel, Silverthorne, Colo.
Elke Dratch, Breckenridge, Colo.
Bill Egbert, Breckenridge, Colo.
Heather Glyde, Leadville, Colo.
Glenn Cain, Alma, Colo.

Guide: Larry Dolecki; Assistant: Steve Konik
Sofia Forsman from Boras, Sweden
Cook: Heather

Sunday April 10, 2016. We flew in via Alpine Helicopters in the Bell 212, the large one (and same machine we used in 2013 at Oasis Lake). Perfect flying weather. We flew wonderfully close to the Arras banana couloirs. We skied up the southernmost Division basin where we had a superb view of Forbes, descended on perfect corn, and then climbed and skied half of the middle Division basin in excellent corn snow. Hot. We also visited the ice cave we had found in 2003. And also a new ice tunnel very close to the Mons Hut.

April 11. To Cambrai summit (10282 feet) on gentle snow slopes, then around Messines. Got a great view of the famous Mons rappel we did in 2003. Finished via the east shoulder of Mons, which was icy and difficult for me. My new knee does not like the stress of difficult conditions.

April 12. To the Continental Divide N of Division. Then a pitch along the crest using a rope for a hand-line. Then ski down to the rim of Icefall Canyon. Up to near Division 1. Icy again. At the end of the day I investigated the new ice tunnel. Just after the pitch-with-rope Katie spotted a wolverine crossing the divide to go east. Again, the icy conditions were hard on my knee.

April 13. To Lyell Hut. Clear day. Fast travel. Steve led the way as Larry stayed behind a little to organize the hut. We had done this route in the opposite direction in 2012.

Thursday April 14. We started the day with the 2000-foot climb of Lyell 5 by an efficient route around the west side. This provided a great view of the peak’s rocky side. The summit area this year was very different than 2012 and we could easily walk the final ridge line to the top, though not everyone did so. The ski down the face was fine in old powder, as was the rest of the descent to the hut. Then we descended to the bottom of Tivoli and a bootpack got us to the very pretty upper basin and over to Tivoli Shoulder. But the descent of the shoulder was icy, and difficult for me. A long day. All were happy to spread out and enjoy the comforts of the Lodge: sauna, shower, beds. Larry has expanded the lodge, and the new kitchen is remarkable. Jonny Buckets had his guitar at the Lodge, and his playing was appreciated.

April 15. Friday. To the Diamond Glacier Crevasses via Ice Pass. Heather and I returned from there with Steve. The climb back up to Ice Pass went smoothly and quickly for us and the run back to camp had the best skiing of the week so far on perect corn. The others went a good ways up the Diamond Spur, covering some of the route to Icefall Peak and reporting great steep powder. On descent they came down the Tempest Glacier, and they then returned via Ice Pass. A big day for them. Bill made one misstep near the bottom and broke a pole.

April 16. Saturday. To summit of Orbit Peak (8350 ft.) with one bonus run on ascent. Some steep booting through a cliff band was needed to gain the upper bowl, and from there the route to the top was easy and spectacular. The summit views were stupendous, especially of Icefall Peak. We could look north and see the other group going up a steep couloir on Alien. Jonathan, Glenn, and I returned with Sofia and had a true steep powder run in the upper bowl. Others descended Terminal Velocity west back into the Icefall Peak basin and returned via Ice Pass. Great way to end the week.

April 17. Sunday. Most of the team went out for a morning ski on Alien shoulder. We exited by heli at about 11:30 with no problems, and then the 1.5 day drive back, this time via Missoula, Pocatello, Kemmerer, Baggs, Steamboat. That route is shorter than my usual Denver-Billings-GreatFalls-Banff route.